Page 30 iGap travelguide 2023
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iGap Travel Guide
30
If only walls could talk. Well, in Kaunas, they quite
literally do. It’s impossible to pinpoint exactly when the
first word was illegally written on the walls of the city,
but during the years of Soviet occupation, some bold,
anonymous statements appeared as a way of breaking
through the endless oppression, challenging the
imposed ideologies, and encouraging self-expression.
After the restoration of independence, the sales of
spray paint seriously shot up, and neither the police
nor the local government could curb the artifice of the
graffiti artists. While today only traces of that untamed
freedom remain – mostly in the form of unobtrusive
gang signs – Kaunas has grown to be regarded as a
street art haven, with eye-catching pieces consistently
updating the face of the city and promoting the
exchange of ideas while ensuring no two visits ever
look or feel the same.
From large-scale murals painted by professional
artists to walls dedicated entirely to free and legal
self-expression, there is much to marvel at as you
explore Kaunas’ art-deco streets, underground
passageways, neighbourhood blocks, former factories,
and central squares. Visitors can pick up a copy of the
Wallographer’s Notes
map from the tourist office or
access it online, easily creating their own personalised
street art walking tours.
Must-sees include the 440-square-metre
Wise Old Man
,
the love story-inspired
Pink Elephant
, the stunning
Star
Seeder
(which gains its true meaning after dark), and
the remarkable
Dadist Mona Lisa in the 21st Century
– a
project which required 500 hours of drawing alone.
In fact, this interactive masterpiece was made using
40 different colours and more than 100 LEDs and is
situated at the Kaunas University of Technology. While
admiring the mural, onlookers are encouraged to visit
www.monaliza.ktu.edu to solve the mathematical
equation and change the colour of Mona Lisa’s glasses.
She can also take your picture from up high!
One controversial artwork that is sure to leave a lasting
impression is the David and Goliath-inspired mural
found beside Kaunas’ eeriest building. The now-
abandoned towering Britanika was once destined to
be a Soviet-era hotel complex; its vision never realised
due to a lack of funding and the then imminent
restoration of independence. The ghost-like façade has
since had many interested investors, its future yet to be
decided. Its sheer size has continued to attract illegal
trespassers for many years, and sadly the site has also
been the location of several suicides. In a statement of
disapproval, Morfai – one of Kuanas’ most known and
followed street artists – drew up a poised David aiming
his sling at a red cross-marked target on the face of the
grey and grim Britanika, its defeat fast approaching.
An ever-evolving living art project, Kiemo Galerija
(Yard Gallery) is the only gallery in the entire country
that is open 24/7, seven days a week. Having moved
into the courtyard over a decade ago, Kaunas legend
Vytenis Jakas (who is responsible for a great number
of the city’s art creations) began to decorate the
bleak exteriors of the residential buildings with
murals and portraits of the Jewish families who had
lived in the area before WWII. One after the other,
new sentimental objects, photographs and sketches
continued to appear on the “Stick Your Memory” wall,
adding to the joyful collage. New artists leave their
traces here, neighbours explore their collective past,
and guests are encouraged to join in the chaotic fun.
Be sure to look beyond your immediate vision; there
are plenty of hidden gems located above.
A STREET ART LEGACY
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